A Cheesemaker’s Inspiration

I have just returned from the Women Chefs and Restaurateurs conference in New Orleans where one of the compelling Master Classes was “Women Pioneers of American Artisanal Cheese”.  The class featured Lynne Devereaux as moderator (Lynne is president of the California Artisan Cheese Guild) , Mary Keehn, Cheesemaker and founder of Cypress Grove Chevre and Paula Lambert, Cheesemaker and Founder of Mozzarella Company.

The focus of the class was for these pioneer cheesemakers to talk about how and why they got started, their source of inspiration and what they see for the future of artisanal cheese in America. 

Mary Keehan had goats and needed to do something with the milk.  That story repeats itself throughout the history of making cheese.  Laura Chenel (former owner of Laura Chenel’s Chevre) found herself in the same situation and traveled to France to learn how to make goat cheese. The panel agreed that Laura was indeed the original goat cheese pioneer in California and the United States.  Paula Lambert had lived in Italy and was pining for fresh mozzarella so she decided to make it herself.  She traveled back to Italy and learned the craft from small local cheesemakers.

Certainly much of Mary’s inspiration comes from the beautiful and unique geography she enjoys in Northern near-coastal California.  Her delightfully imaginative cheese names such as Purple Haze (utilizing lavender and fennel pollen in harmony with her goat cheese), Fog Lights, Humboldt Fog and Mad River Roll all speak to the joy and muse she finds from her beautiful surroundings.  She spoke convincingly of the passion she still feels when she walks into the creamery in the morning and breaths in that fresh aroma of milk.  It is obvious that we can anticipate more magnificent cheeses from this warm and wonderful woman.

Paula Lambert is a joyful and energetic force of nature.  It is clear that she is up for any new concept and she has the organizational skill set to make it happen.  Her journey started with a yearning for a good fresh mozzarella for her caprese salad(impossible to find locally at that time) but also with her involvement with local Texas chefs.   Her products reflect the impact of Mexican herbs and flavors in the local cuisine.  Caciotta, Chile caciotta (Ancho Chile and La Cocina) and herb caciotta (Texas basil, Mexican marigold mint, Mexican Oregano) are all Texas versions of Monterey Jack with local flavor.  She makes Hoja Santa goat cheese, fresh goat cheese bundles with large aromatic hoja santa leaves (think mint and sasafrass).  Her love for Italian cheeses has obviously not waned when you see Mascrapone Torta, Smoked Scamorza (smoked over pecan shells) and Blanca Bianca (washed with white wine).

The consensus of the panel was that the artisanal cheeses trend has only just begun.  There is a real swell of small cheese producers across the country and they welcome the newcomers.  Next to wine, there are few products that so speak to local “terroir” as local artisanal cheese.  As consumers, we all benefit.

The American Cheese Society whose mission statement is to provide American cheesemakers with educational resources and networking opportunities and encourage the highest standards of cheesemaking – just celebrated their 25th anniversary.  ACS has chronicled and encouraged this growth and will continue to celebrate that success.  Again, as consumers, we benefit from this passion and commitment.